Almost Heaven

Sunday, September 27, 2026

Western Slope and Aspens pt. 2 and Cousin John

We started the morning with good coffee at Cimarron Coffee Roasters.

A cool old building built by the Montrose Electric Light and Power Company in 1904. In 1905, it add a 40-ton York Ice Machine. The 1908 Sandborn Map shows the Robert Hailey General Warehouse at the north end of the Power Plant building where the engine and dynamo room were located.

My vanilla latte in my new ceramic/stainless cup

A SanFranciscan Roaster--much like our friend Pete's in St. Louis

After the obligatory good coffee, we drove east into Gunnison, CO, a cute little Mayberry town with a splash of tourism. We passed several Saturday morning soccer games and folks strolling the main drag then stopped by the Visitors' Center to get an opinion on Kebler Pass as Tim's research found that it was an unpaved road. After our experience with the Boreas Pass, we weren't sure we wanted to drive another road like that. The gentleman at the Visitors' Center was helpful but presumptuous. I was the one doing the talking. I asked him if the Kebler Pass was something we could do in a low-to-the-ground SUV. He looked straight at Tim and said, "You could drive it in his Tesla." If you know Tim at all, you know that statement rubbed him the wrong way. I'm not exactly sure what presuming someone drives a Tesla means, but it was clear that he thought Tim was some rich, pampered snob. It really was off putting. And if you know Tim, you also know it couldn't be further from the truth. I think that's why I thought it was kind of funny. So for much of the drive through the pass, Tim became "Biff" and made snarky remarks about Teslas and their owners. (For the record, Tim has nothing against Teslas or their drivers.) Maybe a Tesla driver ran over the guy's dog or something.

From Gunnison, we drove up Hwy 135 to Crested Butte. That drive was supposed to be pretty, but it was a little underwhelming. The good thing is it was relatively short and connected us to Kebler Pass (Hwy 12), which did not disappoint!

Kebler Pass

At the end of Kebler Pass, we headed back to Montrose for a quick regroup, then back out to Telluride via US Hwy 550 to SH 62 to Hwy 145 to Colorado Ave). My Cousin John is the Art Director at Telluride Brewing Company, just outside of Telluride. We had to make a stop to say hello. It was great seeing him!

I can see why John fell in love with Telluride all those years ago. It is an absolutely stunning little town tucked in a bowl surrounded by mountains on three sides. It has a casual, laid-back, mountain vibe that doesn't feel too touristy. We wandered up and down main street and decided on Italian for dinner. Not many place serve real osso-bucco--it was delicious! Tim got a fettuccine dish with mushrooms--also very tasty!

osso-bucco on polenta

fettuccine with mushrooms

After dinner, we strolled some more. We were nearing the end of the shops on Main Street, but Tim pointed ahead and said, "Hey, there's a music store. You always like those." At first I dismissed the idea of going in then it clicked--that's the Telluride Music Co. I follow on Insta. I love their unboxing of really nice, high-end and unique, vintage guitars. I told Tim it might be dangerous if we go in there. I might come out with a guitar. Of course, as he always does when I mention guitars, he said, "I don't care!" We went in and met Warren at 5:57. They closed at 6:00. Warren was easygoing, super knowledgeable about guitars, super low pressure--a musician not a salesman. When we walked in, I was giddy because I was standing in the shop I'd seen on Insta many times! I gawked at some Martins hanging on the wall, went back to the t-shirts, grabbed the one I wanted, checked out, then turned around and saw a guitar on the wall that caught my eye...a 1960's Kent acoustic guitar. It had character. It was vintage. A local guy named Kevin took it apart, rebuilt it, re-fretted it...oh man, it was cool. Warren told us a little more about the guitar and the rebuild. It had a story. I told Warren if I took it off the wall and played it, I might take it home. I regret I did not take that guitar off the wall and play it. I am afraid, however, that if I had, I would have bought it. The biggest obstacle...the reason I didn't take it home? We're not headed home. We're headed west. I cannot leave a guitar in the car for long periods of time, and honestly, there's not room in the back of the car. It would be out in the open in the back seat. Now. Here's the thing. They ship. That guitar may find a place on my wall after all. That story is to be continued.

See you tomorrow!

Friday, September 25, 2026

Western Colorado Part 1

This morning, we left Silverthorne, CO to hit two more scenic drives. There are so many to choose from in the central and western (probably the eastern, too) parts of Colorado. Tim did quite a bit of research ahead of time, but we really are making decisions each evening about what to do the next day (or two). I know this would stress some people out, but it fits our style. :)

We started the morning at Dillon Coffee Lab and Espresso Bar in Dillon, CO, just minutes east of Silverthorne. (Tim's decided Dillon is his favorite small town so far. He likes the vibe.) The coffee and scones (cardamom pear) were delicious. Sorry, no photos.

Dillion, CO

We headed south down CO Hwy 91 through Leadville then down CO Hwy 24 to CO Hwy 82 through Independence Pass (Mt. Elbert, the highest peak in Colorado was cloud covered).

Leadville Main Street--so many little towns have a cute little area, typically main street

The skies were cloudy and we got a little drizzle all the way through Independence Pass. The aspens were in various stages of turning--green, dusty yellows, brilliant golds, fiery oranges. Some were speckled throughout the slopes while others might cover large swathes or entire hillsides.

Independence Pass

Many of the taller peaks were under cloud cover.

Independence Pass

If you look at the tops of these mountains, they got a dusting of snow, from what we gathered, just last night!

Independence Pass

This is an example of the many stages of aspens scattered among the Ponderosa pines.

Independence Pass

Gold in the clouds

Independence Pass

I don't know what the temperature was, but it was chilly!

Independence Pass

So interesting--the gray and red right next to each other!

Independence Pass

We drove through Aspen mostly in the rain then continued on CO Hwy 82 to Glenwood Springs which connected us to I-70 west to Grand Junction. As we kept an eye on the weather, it made sense to slow down a little to let the rain and some of the clouds pass.

We ate in Grand Junction at Devil's Kitchen. It's been my favorite meal of the trip. We chose four small plates to share and ended with dessert. You know I'm going to give you the details!

Mocktails--Peach Rim Rambler--peach and ginger for me, Mesa Sunset--blood orange and something Tim can't remember for him.

Deviled Kitchen Eggs--tepura egg white, herb yolk, candied bacon, watermelon radish

Hatch Green Chili Dip--local chilis, cheese, toasted naan

marinated shrimp ceviche--corn tortillas, smoked red hatch chili aioli, avocado, jicama, watermelon radish

crab hushpuppies--jumbo lump crab, shredded potatoes, panko, spicy remoulade

happy camper

cocoa and pistachio creme brulee

Rooftop at Devil's Kitchen--we ate up here!

From Grand Junction, we doubled back a little on I-70 coming back to CO Hwy 65. We took the eastern leg of Grand Mesa Scenic Highway to CO Hwy 50 to Montrose, where we are spending a couple nights to get in a few more drives (and some hiking) in western Colorado.